13 Desserts of Provence: The Christmas Tradition Explained

If you are in Marseille at Christmas, you may hear about les treize desserts, the 13 desserts. It is a Provençal tradition, and it is less a recipe than a table full of small things to share. Here is what it means, what is usually on the table, and how to taste it as a visitor.

What is the tradition?

The 13 desserts are served after the gros souper, the big Christmas Eve dinner of December 24. The number 13 stands for Christ and the 12 apostles. The desserts stay on the table for up to three days, so people can pick at them.

It is a family custom, which means the details vary from home to home. There is no single official list, and anyone who tells you otherwise is simplifying.

One more thing about the tradition: it is a table meant to be picked at, not a formal dessert course. People take a little of everything, and the dishes stay out for those three days. That is also why it works so well as something to recreate while traveling: nothing needs to be served hot or on a schedule.

The usual list

These are the elements that come up most often:

• Pompe à l'huile (also called gibassié), a flat olive oil bread or cake
• Nougat, both white and black
• Dried fruits, including the four mendicants (see below)
• Dates
• Fresh fruit: oranges, mandarins, pears, grapes
• Quince paste
• Calissons d'Aix, almond-based sweets from Aix-en-Provence

Families swap items in and out, so a table of 13 can look different from one house to the next.

Pompe à l'huile is made with olive oil, which is why you may see it described as an olive oil bread. Both nougats, white and black, are usually on the table together. Calissons are from Aix, not Marseille, but they are widely accepted as part of the list.

The four mendicants

Les quatre mendiants, the "four beggars", are the dried fruits and nuts on the table: almonds, hazelnuts, dried figs and raisins. They are a staple of the 13 desserts and the easiest part to find in any market.

The practical point is that they are easy to buy, they keep well and they are light. They make a good starting point if you only want to build a partial version.

Where to find them in Marseille

You do not need a special address. Bakery-pastry shops, markets and ordinary shops carry most of the items at Christmas time. For a local classic, there is the Four des Navettes on rue Sainte. It opened in 1781 and is presented as the oldest bakery in the city. Its navettes, boat-shaped biscuits, are not strictly on the list, but they are a good Marseille addition to the table.

For fresh fruit, nuts and dried fruit, the markets are the place to go. Our article on the Noailles market is a good start. Prices and stock change from year to year, so we do not quote any here.

A useful rule: shop earlier in December rather than on December 23 or 24, when popular items may be gone. You can also ask a bakery directly whether they put together a ready-made assortment; some do, some do not, and we cannot say which. Do not expect everything to be sold in one shop.

Making your own at home

If you are staying in an apartment, you can build a simple version without cooking. Buy a few items from the list above: the four mendicants, some nougat, dates, quince paste and a few fresh fruits. Put them on a plate, and you have the spirit of the tradition.

Do not worry about reaching exactly 13. The point is to share a table of small sweet things, not to count correctly.

If you want a little more effort, you can add a bread such as the pompe à l'huile from a bakery and some fresh oranges and mandarins. That is already half the list, and it costs very little time.