If the Vieux-Port is the postcard, Cours Julien, we just call it "Cours Ju", is, to us, the real creative pulse of the city. It's the neighborhood we show friends coming back for a second visit, the ones who've already covered the must-sees and want to see the Marseille we actually love, day to day.
Why we love this neighborhood
Cours Julien has one of the highest densities of street art murals in the city, which change regularly over the months, making it a place worth revisiting, never quite the same twice. Around it, the neighborhood mixes small natural-wine bars, vintage shops, independent concept stores and an active music and community-group scene. It's a living neighborhood, not a frozen open-air museum.
Our walking route
We usually start at the Place du Cours Julien itself, surrounded by terraces, before heading up the small side streets (Rue Vian, Rue Pastoret) where most of the standout murals are concentrated. Take the time to look up: some of the most interesting pieces are high up, covering entire façades, not just at eye level. Plan on 1.5 to 2 hours for a full wander, more if you stop into a vintage shop or for a drink along the way, which, honestly, always ends up happening.
Our favorite bars and tables in the neighborhood
Cours Julien holds several of our favorite spots for a drink or dinner, all verified, never a tourist trap.
See our nightlife picksExtending to Noailles and its market
A few minutes' walk away, the Noailles neighborhood is home to one of Marseille's liveliest, most multicultural markets: spices, fruit and vegetable stalls, smells that tell the city's immigration story all on their own. It's a more working-class, less photogenic neighborhood than Cours Julien, but just as essential to understanding Marseille beyond the Vieux-Port postcard. We mainly go in the morning, when the market is at its liveliest.
When to go
During the day for the street art and shops (natural light does the murals justice), in the evening for the bar scene and the small live-music spots that keep the neighborhood buzzing most of the week. It's also, along with the Vieux-Port, one of the few Marseille neighborhoods that stays lively even on a weeknight, handy if your trip doesn't fall on a weekend.
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Unlock the complete guideFrequently asked questions about Cours Julien
Does the street art in Cours Julien change often?
Yes, regularly: some murals are painted over or replaced over the months, which makes the neighborhood one to revisit, never quite the same from one visit to the next.
How long does it take to see Cours Julien?
Plan on 1.5 to 2 hours to wander the main streets and spot the murals, longer if you stop into vintage shops or for a drink on a terrace.
Is Cours Julien accessible by public transit?
Yes, the Notre-Dame du Mont - Cours Julien metro station serves the neighborhood directly, about 10-15 minutes from the Vieux-Port.