Mistral Wind in Marseille: What It Is and How to Cope

Ask a local about the weather in Marseille and sooner or later you will hear about the mistral. It is the wind that clears the sky, dries the air and can change your plans for the day. Here is what it is, when it comes, and how to deal with it.

What is the mistral?

The mistral is a northwest wind, cold and dry, that comes down the Rhône valley. Gusts can exceed 100 km/h. It leaves the sky clear and the air very sharp, so the days can be bright and beautiful even when it is uncomfortable to stand outside.

The wind is a regular part of life here, and locals talk about it all the time. It is not dangerous in the city, but it changes how the day feels, and it affects some activities more than others.

When does it blow?

A local saying is that it blows for 3, 6 or 9 days. Treat that as folklore, not a forecast: look at the weather report instead. After rain, the mistral often arrives and clears things up.

For a wider look at the seasons, see when to go to Marseille.

If you are planning a trip, do not try to predict the wind months ahead. Check the forecast a few days before and have an indoor alternative. The saying about 3, 6 or 9 days is a fun thing to know, but do not plan around it.

In the city

The Vieux-Port is exposed to the wind, so the café terraces there can be rough on a windy day. Do not leave light objects on the table: menus, napkins and anything that can fly will. Sit on a sheltered side street if you want to eat outside.

Cold wind makes a sunny day feel colder than the thermometer says, so dress by feel, not by temperature. A scarf and a light jacket go a long way. If you are walking along the waterfront, plan a stop in a sheltered street or a café so you can warm up.

Calanques and boats

In summer, the mistral makes the fire risk worse. When it is high, the prefecture can close the massifs, including the Calanques, by order. Check before you plan a hike. Our guide to the Calanques explains the basics.

Boat trips, such as those to the Frioul islands or the Château d'If, can be canceled when the wind is strong. Keep your plan flexible and confirm on the day.

In a high-risk period the prefecture decides, not the park or the boat operator. Closures are announced by the authorities, so check the official channels the day before and the morning of your hike. If you have a boat ticket, ask about the cancellation or rebooking policy when you buy it.

Practical tips

• Bring a windbreaker, even in sunny weather.
• Tie back long hair if you do not want it in your face.
• Wear sunglasses against dust and grit.
• Do not leave light things on a terrace table.
• Stay flexible for boat trips and hikes.

One more thing: the mistral is also why the sky can look so clear and the light so sharp, which walkers tend to appreciate. If you are planning a longer stay, our article on when to go to Marseille helps you judge the season.

The best advice is to stay flexible. A mistral day is a good day for a museum, a market or a long lunch, and the clear air makes the views excellent when you do go out.