La Chandeleur in Marseille: Procession, Navettes, Abbey

Every February 2, Marseille celebrates La Chandeleur (Candlemas) in a way you will not find elsewhere in France: a procession from the Vieux-Port to the Abbaye Saint-Victor, and a blessing of the city, the sea and the navettes, the local boat-shaped biscuits. If you are visiting in winter, it is a distinctive thing to see. Times change, so verify them before you go.

What is the festival?

La Chandeleur falls on February 2. In 2027 that is a Tuesday. In Marseille it comes with a series of events that, according to the tourist office, last about nine days. The religious ceremony is the core, but there is a broader festive side around it.

For a visitor, the key thing is that this is a local religious celebration that happens to be open to anyone who wants to watch. Be respectful: keep quiet during the ceremony and follow the instructions of the organizers.

The procession

The procession starts very early in the morning, around 5 a.m. according to the sources we know. It leaves the Vieux-Port (quai des Belges), goes along rue Sainte and arrives at the Abbaye Saint-Victor.

At the abbey, the black Virgin from the crypt is presented. The archbishop blesses the city, the sea and the green candles, and a mass follows. These details come from the usual accounts of the ceremony. Times are not fixed, so check the current schedule with the tourist office.

Since the start is so early, think about where you want to stand. The quai des Belges is the departure point and rue Sainte is the route, so either is a reasonable place to see it pass. The abbey itself will probably be crowded for the mass. Look for the official program for exact times and any changes.

The navettes

Navettes are biscuits shaped like a small boat, flavored with orange blossom. The tradition is tied to the festival, and the navettes are blessed at the Four des Navettes on rue Sainte. It is a bakery that opened in 1781 and is presented as the oldest in the city.

If you cannot make the early procession, the navettes are still a pleasant thing to buy in the days around the festival.

The name means "little boat" and the shape recalls a boat, which suits a port city. Try one before buying a box, and if you are bringing some home, ask how long they keep.

Getting there

The hour is very early, so work out how you will get there the evening before. Check our guide to getting around Marseille for the main options, and look up exact times and street closures with the city or the tourist office before the day.

Dress warmly. A cold winter morning near the sea can feel colder than the forecast suggests, especially if the mistral is blowing.

Our suggestion is to stay somewhere close to the Vieux-Port the night before, so you can walk. It also helps to charge your phone and bring a small flashlight or use your phone light, as it will still be dark.

Around the festival

Since the events run for about nine days, you do not have to be there at dawn to take part. Look at the program when it is published, and check what is open around the Vieux-Port and the Saint-Victor area. February is quiet for tourism, which can be an advantage if you like a calmer city.

Even if you miss the procession, you can still visit the abbey and walk rue Sainte at a more reasonable hour. Check opening hours first, since they may differ during the festival.